In Puerto de Santa Maria, avoid all the touristy bars and restaurants on the river's edge and instead head into the historic center for a bite to eat. I walked up a bunch of small winding streets to finally uncover this gem in a small plaza. It's adjacent to a hotel (Casa de los Leones, which was lovely inside!). Their specialty are tapas made in a very "local" southern Spanish way. They are cheap and yummy! Try the lomo de dorada, and the salmorejo.